Monday, July 16, 2012

Makeup Tips: Contouring

Picture from thefashionbombdaily.com
One of my friends asked make a post about how to contour with makeup. Foundation, especially in flash photography, can make a face look flat, but with a little bronzer and illuminator, you can add definition to your face by creating sculpted cheekbones and glowing skin.
I had a really hard time finding photos where the contouring/not contouring was obvious with a flash, but hopefully these two show the difference. The effect is most noticeable under the cheekbone and along the side of the nose.
Before contoured cheeks
After contouring and highlighting. 
I like to contour with an angled blush brush. I've found that natural hair versus synthetic deposits bronzer more evenly, giving it a more natural look.
To find the best bronzer for your face, look for a matte color that is two shades darker than your skin, and one shade darker if you have a very fair complexion. If you have a warm undertone to your skin, go with a gold-toned bronzer. If you have a cool undertone, find something that looks like it has a pinkish base.

To contour, you're first going to look at yourself in the mirror and press the insides of your cheeks to your teeth, making a "kissy face."
Angle Blush Brush
You should be able to see your cheek bones, as well as the shadow the hollowness beneath them creates. Next, load your angle brush with bronzer, tap off the excess, and follow the hollow under your cheekbone from under the apple of your cheek up to your temple, making a C shape around your temple and cheekbone. The short side of the angled brush should be pointing up toward your cheekbone.  Once you've contoured both cheekbones, lightly blend bronzer into your temples and hairline if you want your face to appear a little more angular, and the sides of the nose if you want a thinner looking bridge, or will be using flash photography. If the lines are too harsh, blend them lightly in circular motions with a big fluffy brush, like a kabuki brush.

Kabuki brush
The best highlighting tools and techniques depend on the formula that you're using. If you're using a pump or squeeze liquid (VS PRO has a good one), pump a very small amount on your hand, dip a cosmetic sponge into the highlighter, and lightly dab it along the highest point of your cheekbone; then use your finger to apply a small amount to the bridge of your nose and on the cupid's bow of your lips. Set liquid highlighter with shimmery powder or champagne-colored eyeshadow.
If you're using a liquid with a wand applicator (like Benefit High Beam), brush small dots of highlighter along your cheekbones, and blend in an upward circular motion with the pad of your thumb, then add very small dots of highlighter to the bridge of your nose and the cupid's bow and blend.
If you have oily skin or want to avoid a summer makeup meltdown, stick to a powder illuminator or shimmery nude eyeshadow. My current favorite highlighter is Physician's Formula Mineral Glow Pearls Powder Palette. It's great on it's own for a natural glow, or for setting liquid highlighters for a dewy finish. When I apply a shimmer powder or blush, I like to use a stippling brush with synthetic bristles, because it deposits the color lightly and slightly pixelates it, giving a more airbrushed effect. Brush the powder over your cheekbones, down your nose, and on the center of your forehead.

I hope you found this helpful! Stay beautiful!


Follow Me on Pinterest

No comments:

Post a Comment